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 | Sicily in shortcuts |
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It is without doubt the most sinful and corrupt place that exists in the Mediterranean, people assume. Stories of imprisoned mafia bosses, gang shootings and drug traffic populate the media and we might think twice if we should choose Sicily for our vacation. But we should not do that because this island is a fabulous place, rich in culture, traditions and heritage, as well as nature and culinary specialties. Sicily’s history goes back thousands of years, collecting an immense amount of architectural and artistic treasures that mirror styles, techniques and influences of the many Mediterranean cultures. Greeks, Byzantines and Arabs all added their touch to this small place in the sea. The Greek temples are still today a touristy magnet that testifies the glory of past times. Especially Agrigento comes up with a valley full of temples that are nowadays overshadowed by modern apartment blocks on the top of the hill. Only down in the valley the ruins throne with their monumentality and can be appreciated accordingly. Syracuse is another example of great Hellenistic architecture. Divided into two parts, Syracuse unifies the mainland and the picturesque island of Ortygia which is actually the spiritual and physical heart of the city. Atmospheric alleys and fantastic preserved Palazzos indeed make Ortygia a beautiful place which is understandably populated with tourists. The main land is less spectacular and less ancient but nevertheless worth a visit. A bit further outside the city centre, Syracuse possesses nice sandy beaches and hotels in a quiet and private atmosphere.
From Syracuse to Agrigento it takes a couple of hours driving along the coast line of Sicily passing Ragusa and Gela. Latter having a tragic history as it was completely destroyed in 282 BC and later again during WW II. But nevertheless, the city centre presents a charming small city with warm hearted people and great eateries serving delicious traditional food. After stopping at the “Valley of the Temples” and experiencing Agrigento’s liveliness and aggressiveness it is time to move on to Palermo which is definitely the best known city in Sicily. Nearly 3000 years of age, Palermo has a long and rich history that is presented in the many architectural, cultural and artistic sights. Although the city is quite big it is easily manageable by foot. Most of the places are in the neighbourhood of Via Maqueda, the central street, and Cosro Vittorio Emanuele. The four corners “Quattro Canti”, the Teatro Massimo and the Cattedral di Monreale are some of the places of interest. But although Palermo is a popular destination it is a bit too hectic and dirty for my own taste.
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After Palermo the next stop is Cefalù, a beautiful town in mountainous scenery with historical alleys and a rocky beachside. It is a touristy place but still dreamy and relaxed with many great fish restaurants and cafes. The bigger version of Cefalù is Taormina which is located on a spectacular location on top of Monte Tauro that gives an astonishing view on Mt Etna. Taormina is called Sicily’s glitziest resort which is especially during the summer months awash with tourists. Nice beaches, a historical centre and a beautiful view make the city definitely an attractive place. Most of the shops and restaurants, however, are concentrated on the tourist industry and may be more expensive than anywhere else. From Taormina it is only a 20 minutes ride to Catania which happens to be the second commercial city of Sicily. It was built from lava stone as it is closely located to Mt Etna. Catania is a lively city where historical sights are nicely merged with modern life. Good restaurants and cafes can be found in the side streets of Via Etnea, the main street which is loaded with fashion shops and gelaterias (ice cream shops).
In general, Sicily is a beautiful country with traditional but warm hearted and friendly people which are very helpful even if you don’t speak Italian. The best time to visit is definitely spring when flowers are blossoming and the heat isn’t too bad. Summer is extremely hot and tiring. At the later months of the year, Sicily is still a nice destination but most of the environment is already dry. Of course, there are some prejudices that are really true … Sicilian food is very good and available at moderate or even cheap prices; the wine is exquisite and absolutely recommendable. Appearance, religion, tradition and family are a big deal to Sicilians but it is also true that they drive like maniacs and gesticulate wildly when speaking. But well, isn’t that something that makes them so special and the country so fabulous?
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